Dri Eaz 2800 LGR Dehumidifier not removing moisture
by Michael
(Houston)
The dehumidifier is not pulling moisture from the air. Why is this?
Answer
The explanation is almost certainly a failure in the refrigeration system. This is most likely due to a fault in the compressor or to loss of refrigerant.
I assume that the fan is operating. If so the problem is unlikely to be due to a sensor failure although this is a possibility.
If the refrigeration system of your unit is still under warranty you may get some help with the cost of any repair. In any event I recommend that you contact Dri-Eaz for advice.
Contact details are available in your manual but if that document is not immediately to hand the (toll free) number for the Dri-Eaz Service Department is: 800-932-3030.
Tom
Basement Dehumidifier - Heating the Basement
by LH
Purchased Frigidaire 50 Pint Dehumidifier and it seems to be removing moisture from the air, but the temp in the basement is 80 degrees.
With my old dehumidifier, the basement would be cool, like a/c. Now it's very warm. I have it set for 50% humidity. Do I have it set correctly?
Answer
Hello, thank your for your question.
Dehumidifiers have some things in common with air conditioners but they do not cool the air. The air that is returned to the room by a dehumidifier is actually warmer than the air in the room.
The reason for this is the way a dehumidifier works. A dehumidifier consists of a fan, a compressor and two sets of coils. The compressor supplies energy to squeeze the refrigerant into a pressurized liquid in the condenser coils. This process forces heat to leave the refrigerant, which warms the condenser coils. The pressurized liquid then passes into the evaporator coils where a proportion of it vaporizes in an instant, absorbing heat and cooling the evaporator coils.
The fan draws in air which passes over the cold evaporator coils, condensing water vapor from the air, the air then continues through the dehumidifier, passing over the warm condenser coils and cooling them. The air leaving the dehumidifier, having absorbed heat from the condenser coils, is now warmer than the air in the room and will raise the temperature in that room by a few degrees over time.
The reason that a dehumidifier can make the temperature feel two to three degrees cooler is because it lowers relative humidity. When humidity is high the body's cooling mechanism, sweating, works less efficiently because the rate of evaporation from the skin, and hence the amount of heat leaving the body, falls.
The amount of heat produced by a dehumidifier varies from model to model but it should not raise the temperature excessively.
The heat in your basement may simply be a reflection of a high outdoor temperature. Your submission did not include details of your location but if you are in the USA you may be one of those sweltering in record high temperatures during the current heat wave.
Your selection of 50% relative humidity is fine but it is possible that the humidistat is inaccurate. Humidistats on portable home dehumidifiers are seldom accurate to within less than +/-5%. If the humidistat on your Frigidaire is incorrectly calibrated the error may be greater. The only way to check this is to use a separate hygrometer, a humidity measuring device. If you should buy one of these it should include instructions for use but if you borrow one please be aware that it needs to be left in your basement for at least a couple of hours before it will provide an accurate measurement.
One other possibility is that the dehumidifier is too small for the area of your basement. If it is removing water from the air but running 24/7 this is very likely the case. A properly sized dehumidifier will cycle on and off to maintain the programmed level of relative humidity. The longer the dehumidifier runs the more heat it produces so this could account for your problem.
I hope this is helpful and enables you to identify the cause of your problem.
Tom (Webmaster)
Basement dehumidifier Kenmore ser. #702 15
by Linda
(Barrie)
Can you please tell me what E3 means on the dehumidifier?
Answer
I have not been able to identify your dehumidifier from the model number you have provided. As you live in Canada I believe you may have a unit manufactured for Sears Canada by DeLonghi, possibly the MD Electronic Dehumidifier.
If that is the case I believe E3 displayed by the unit indicates a sensor failure. The most likely culprit is the humidity sensor but there are other possibilities. I am afraid I cannot be more specific. This error code is not defined in the manual and I am aware that other users have been unable to obtain a clear answer from DeLonghi customer service as to which sensor has failed.
You have not mentioned any change in the dehumidifier's performance. Consequences of a sensor failure could be the dehumidifier running constantly (failing to cycle on and off), not running at all, failing to defrost or remaining constantly in defrost mode.
If the dehumidifier is behaving normally the E3 code may be appearing because of a fault in the display itself. By normal behaviour I mean that it is controlling humidity as before, that there are no strange vibrations, noises or smells and that the dehumidifier does not feel any warmer than usual when touched. In that case I suggest that you simply ignore the problem.
If it is not behaving normally it is not doing its job and/or it may have a fault that renders the dehumidifier unsafe. In that event it may be either pointless or risky to continue using the appliance. In these circumstances, if the dehumidifier is out of warranty, your best option is almost certainly to replace it. If a dehumidifier requires anything but the most minor of repairs the cost is likely to approach or exceed the cost of a new unit.
I hope this is helpful.
Tom (Webmaster)
Danby deshumidificateur
by Manon Côté
(Québec)
We bought the Danby model 30,8l and a "P1" Is suddenly appear and we don't know what is for? Please could you help me. My name is Manon. Thank you for your help.
Answer
Hi Manon, thank you for your question.
There is no need for concern, "P1" appears in the digital display to show that the dehumidifier is "de-frosting" which is a normal part of the dehumidifier's function.
I will explain how and why this happens for the benefit of anyone who is not familiar with how a dehumidifier works.
A dehumidifier works by passing air over cold coils, called evaporator coils. The water vapor in the air condenses on the cold coils and drips into the water collection container. The evaporator coils are part of a refrigeration system, just like the one inside your kitchen refrigerator.
Because the evaporator coils are so cold some of the condensed water vapor will freeze on the coils instead of dripping into the water collection container. This can happen even when the room temperature is as high as 20C/68F.
A sensor in the dehumidifier detects that ice has formed and switches the dehumidifier into "de-frost mode". In de-frost mode the compressor stops working. The compressor is part of the refrigeration system and when it stops the evaporator coils are no longer being cooled.
The fan continues to run, which may give the impression that the dehumidifier is still operating normally. The air driven by the fan flows over the evaporator coils and the heat in that air helps to speed up the thawing process, known as de-frosting. Once the ice has melted the compressor switches on again and the dehumidifier starts to remove water from the air once more.
De-frosting is necessary for two reasons; first, to protect the dehumidifier from damage; second, because the ice on the coils reduces the effectiveness of the dehumidifier.
The only reason that you should be concerned about the de-frosting process is if you are using the dehumidifier in an area where the room temperature is below 16C/60F for long periods. Portable home dehumidifiers are not designed for use in such cool conditions and, while they will not be damaged they will not be very effective. For cooler conditions a low temperature dehumidifier is needed, such as a purpose built basement dehumidifier.
To summarize, P1 indicates that the dehumidifier is in de-frosting mode. De-frosting is a normal part of the way a dehumidifier works. You need not be concerned unless your dehumidifier is operating in an area which is too cool for it to function effectively.
For a fuller explanation you may like to visit this page.
I hope this is helpful.
Dehumidifier Coil Icing Up
by J. Wallace
(Miramichi NB Canada)
I have a Danby DDR4588EE Dehumidifier. The coil is icing about 3/4 of the way up. I have cleaned filter and tried running without a filter and it is still icing up.
Answer
There are two other maintenance tasks you can try. The air flow is critical to the correct functioning of a dehumidifier. Even a small reduction in air flow can cause icing of the evaporator (cold) coils. If the fan is not moving at its designed speed this may cause an icing problem.
You could try oiling the fan motor bearings and ensure that the fan is running freely.
The evaporator coils can collect dust particles and other debris over an extended period of use. These particles hold water which can freeze on the coils.
Cleaning the evaporator coils may solve the problem but extreme care must be taken when doing so. The coils are very sharp so take every precaution to avoid injury to your hands. They are also delicate so must be cleaned very gently to avoid damage. If water is used to clean the coils, and there is really no alternative, please ensure that the interior of the dehumidifier has dried thoroughly before reconnecting to the power supply. This process may take at least 24 hours in a warm area.
Having suggested these actions I have to say that I am 90% certain that they will not solve your problem. Uneven icing on the evaporator coils "3/4 of the way up" is usually an indication that the unit is short of refrigerant or the compressor is beginning to fail.
Any repair will have to be carried out by a professional and, unless your dehumidifier is still within warranty, will be expensive. Even under the terms of many warranties you may incur expense which could make the repair uneconomical.
The unit would have to be tested for leaks, the leak repaired (if possible), and the refrigerant recharged. The cost could easily exceed the cost of a replacement dehumidifier.
Alternatively, or additionally, the unit may need a replacement compressor which would certainly, inclusive of installation, cost more than the dehumidifier is worth.
I am sorry my response is not what you would wish to hear but I regret that a new dehumidifier is almost the only solution that makes economic sense.
Tom (Webmaster)
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Dehumidifier Model LD450EAL
by Nicholas BRUCK
(ROCKVILLE, MD)
I have the humidifier Model LD450EAL (45 Pint). It stopped working. What do I need to do to get it fixed?
Answer
Hi Nicholas, thanks for your question.
With the information provided with your question it is not clear what the problem may be so I will deal with the possible issues as I see them.
If the dehumidifier is still under general warranty you should seek support from the responsible party specified in that warranty, either the manufacturer, wholesale distributor or retailer.
If the general warranty has expired but you have a longer warranty on the sealed refrigeration system you should check the terms of that warranty. If taking action under such a warranty involves you in costs, such as shipping, it may be uneconomical for you to have it repaired and replacing the unit may be preferable.
If the unit is not covered by any form of warranty there are two general areas to consider.
- An electrical fault.
If the dehumidifier appears lifeless, no fan operation, no indicator lights on, it may be a simple matter of a break in the circuit. Check the circuit on which the dehumidifier operates to ensure that a circuit breaker has not tripped out and check the fuse in the plug at the end of the power cable.
If there is a loose connection inside the dehumidifier it may be obvious from a visual examination of the inside of the unit. It goes without saying that the unit should be disconnected from the power supply before it is opened. If nothing is obviously loose you will need to seek professional advice.
At this point the value of a repair becomes questionable. If the warranty on your dehumidifier has expired its remaining life expectancy, following an electrical repair, would probably not justify the cost of such a repair. - A refrigeration problem.
If the fan is running but no water is being collected or drained it is almost certainly a refrigeration problem; the refrigerant is leaking or the compressor has failed.
Testing for leaks is expensive, plus the cost of a repair and recharging the refrigerant. If the compressor needs to be replaced this too is expensive.
The disappointing news I have to pass on is that a repair is not worthwhile and that the cost may approach or even exceed the cost of a replacement dehumidifier. It is a regrettable fact of life that portable home dehumidifiers have a short working life and are, effectively, throw away items if they require anything more than the most minor of repairs.
Tom (Webmaster)
Dri-Eaz LGR 2800i - white residue from pump
by Daryll Mauder
(Cleveland Ohio)
I am getting a white residue coming out of the pump outlet. Also inside is a white powder which is clogging the pump outlet.
Please advise.
Answer
Hi Daryll, thank you for your question.
The most likely explanation is that air borne particles from one or more sites at which the unit has been used have passed through the filter and entered the dehumidifier. The manufacturer advises that the dehumidifier should not be used "..when excessive dust or airborne particles are present, such as during sanding or spray-painting."
There are a number of maintenance routines necessary to protect the dehumidifier and ensure that it operates effectively.
- The air filter should be inspected and cleaned as required, and before every job. The filter should be vacuumed but not rinsed or washed. The filter may be cleaned up to a maximum of three times, after which it should be replaced. The filter should always be replaced when "..it has been used on a mold remediation job or otherwise exposed to potentially dangerous contaminants."
- The coils should be checked for the build up of dirt and cleaned as required. They should be routinely cleaned on a monthly basis.
- The heat exchange block should be cleaned monthly using only compressed air.
- The pump and drain pan assembly should be removed and cleaned monthly
- The pump system should be inspected by the Dri-Eaz Service Department (800-932-3030) or by a qualified service center once a year.
Detailed instructions on carrying out these maintenance procedures are given in the user's manual of which you can download a copy here.
The manual is in PDF format which can be read in Adobe Reader. Adobe Reader is free to individual users from Adobe.com. If you do not have Adobe Reader on your computer simply follow this link to Adobe.com. In the box entitled "Download" click on "Adobe Reader" and follow the instructions on the screen which appears.
One or a combination of these procedures may solve your problem but if not you should call your local distributor or contact the Dri-Eaz Service Department toll-free at 800-932-3030 for further assistance. Dri-Eaz specifically advise operators not to attempt repairs and doing so may invalidate the warranty on the unit.
Tom (Webmaster)
Haier 45 Pint Dehumidifier runs continuously
by Anon.
My aunt's dehumidifier is constantly running. Her old one would turn itself on & off. Should the new one always run?
Thank you!
Answer
Hello, thank you for your question.
There are several possible explanations.
If the dehumidifier is removing water and the bucket needs to be emptied at least once per day the dehumidifier is working properly. In that case the possible explanations are as follows:
- The dehumidifier is too small for the area in which it is working.
The "45 pint" tag on this dehumidifier means that it should remove up to 45 pints of water per day. This varies with temperature and relative humidity but if it is working effectively but the area is too large it will never reach the level of relative humidity programmed using the humidistat. If your aunt's previous dehumidifier was more powerful this is the most likely explanation. - The humidistat has been programmed for too low a level of relative humidity.
The ideal level of relative humidity is between 45% and 50%. A setting of 45% will be adequate to achieve this. It is not necessary to go below this figure, particularly in warm weather and to do so uses more energy with little or no additional benefit. Portable home dehumidifiers struggle to achieve a level of relative humidity much lower than 45% but will continue to run if the humidistat is set to a lower figure. - The humidistat is incorrectly calibrated.
The humidistat fitted to a portable home dehumidifier is seldom capable of measuring relative humidity more accurately than +/-5%. If it is wrongly calibrated or otherwise faulty it can misread the level by even more, possibly as much as 20%. In this case the dehumidifier would be sensing a level of RH significantly higher than the true figure and continuing to run for that reason.
The way to check this is to buy or borrow a hygrometer, a humidity measuring device. If you borrow one, and have no instructions, please note that the hygrometer must be left in the room for at least a couple of hours before an accurate reading is possible.
If the hygrometer shows a reading within 5% or less of the level set with the humidistat the humidistat is working correctly within its error tolerance. If the difference is a little greater try increasing the humidistat setting by 5% and take a new reading. If the result is a true RH of 50% or lower and the dehumidifier now cycles on and off the problem is solved.
If the difference between the hygrometer reading and the humidistat setting is significantly greater than 5% the humidistat is faulty and the unit should be repaired, replaced or returned. - The room in which the dehumidifier is being used is too cool
Portable home dehumidifiers are not designed to be used in areas in which the temperature is lower than 65F for extended periods. If the temperature is much lower the dehumidifier may spend too much time defrosting and be unable to reach the programmed level of relative humidity. I mention this because your submission did not indicate where you or your aunt live. If your aunt is in a part of the USA enduring the current heat wave you may ignore this as a possibility. :) - The dehumidifier fan is running but the compressor is not.
You have not identified the model that your aunt is using but there are two ways in which dehumidifiers sample the air to measure relative humidity. When the programmed level of relative humidity is reached the compressor, the engine of the refrigeration process that condenses the water, cycles off. In some models the fan continues to run continuously to sample the air; in others the fan comes on for a few minutes every hour or so to collect an air sample.
If your aunt's previous dehumidifier only sampled the air on an occasional basis but the fan of her Haier runs continuously it is possible that she has not realised that the compressor has cycled off and that the dehumidifier is working properly. This is an easy mistake to make as the fan is the main source of noise.
Please forgive me if you and your aunt are aware of this. I have to cover every possibility just to be sure.
I believe I have covered all the probable explanations except one; that the dehumidifier is faulty. If it is not removing water it is almost certainly the refrigeration system that has failed. If it is removing water and cannot be managed by a modest correction of the setting programmed with the humidistat then it is this component that is faulty as I explained earlier.
I will end by saying that Haier is not one of our favorite brands and we do not specifically recommend it to our visitors. If your aunt is looking for an alternative to this brand she, or you may wish to look at the selected models that we do recommend.
I hope this is helpful and that you can solve your aunt's problem.
Tom (Webmaster)
Kenmore 50 Pint Dehumidifier with Electronic Controls ENERGY STAR
by Anon.
How do I restart after power failure...all it does is beep??
Answer
I assume that power is still reaching the dehumidifier. If not check that a circuit breaker has not been tripped by the power outage.
If power is still reaching the dehumidifier ensure that the water collection container is empty and correctly inserted into the unit.
It is possible, although unlikely that the basement or room temperature is too low for the dehumidifier but, if it is below around 45F this may prevent the dehumidifier from operating.
Turn the power key to "off" and remove the plug from the power supply. Plug the unit back into the power supply and turn the power key to "on".
Set the humidity control to its lowest setting, 35%.
Check that the timer is not set as certain settings delay the start of operation.
If you have been through all these checks and procedures the dehumidifier should be working. If it is not it has almost certainly developed a fault.
If you believe the unit is faulty, and it is still under warranty, your best course of action is to contact Sears for assistance.
If the unit is no longer under warranty and you are seeking a repair you may wish to contact Sears Parts & Repair Center on 1-800-488-1222. I should add, however, that dehumidifier repairs are frequently so costly that replacement is often a preferable choice.
Tom (Webmaster)
Stopped working - portable dehumidifier Eco Air Model 20LDK
by David Rollins
(Oxfordshire)
Hi.
My 2 year old dehumidifier has stopped working. I switch it on and it works for 2 minutes, then just shuts off and beeps, and no controls work.
I've cleaned the filters and emptied the water container, but just the same as above.
Instructions do not help. Please advise.
Thanks, Dave.
Answer
Hi Dave.
There are many possible explanations but from the symptoms you describe I think the most likely cause is a failure in the refrigeration system.
This could be a fault in the compressor itself or loss of refrigerant due to leakage.
Other causes could be a sensor failure or related to the power supply. Sensor failures are usually obvious when error codes are shown. If power supply was the cause the appliance would not switch on in the first place. These two explanations appear to be improbable.
When the appliance "works" for a couple of minutes only the fan, which makes most of the noise, is operating.
As the machine is more than twelve months old it will be out of warranty. The depressing truth is that the cost of diagnosis and repair will almost certainly approach or exceed the cost of a replacement unit.
Even if you could confidently diagnose the problem and install a replacement part yourself the cost of the part would probably make the project only marginally economic. If it is, as I suspect, the refrigeration system I would not recommend a D.I.Y job and a replacemet compressor would in any case be too expensive to justify.
I am sorry that I cannot pass on better news but I think a replacement is almost certainly the cheapest and safest solution.
Tom.
Eco Air DD122FW Mark4 dehumidifier not working?
by Sue
(Watford UK)
My dehumidifier is not collecting any water and there is no heat. Is it broken?
Answer
Hi Sue.
I'm sorry but the simple answer is yes.
As I'm sure you know your dehumidifier is not a refrigerant model and does not have a compressor. In a refrigerant unit the compressor is part of a refigeration system which cools a coil inside the appliance over which air from the room is drawn by a fan. The water condenses on the coil and is thus removed from the air which is then returned to the room.
The DD122FW Mark4 also has a fan to draw in and expel the air. In this model the water vapour is absorbed by a dessicant material. In order to extract the absorbed water heat must be applied to the desiccant material. Your unit contains a small heater to provide the warmth and a second fan to drive the warm air over the dessicant. This explains the heat you feel when the unit is working properly.
The unit may "sound" as if it's working if one or both of the fans are working. If however the heater has failed, or the fan that drives the warm air over the desiccant is not working, the desiccant is not being dried and can absorb no more water.
So, yes a part has failed and it is either rhe heater or the associated fan, possibly both.
If the unit is still under warranty you may be able to get it repaired at a modest or zero cost. If not a repair is likely to be uneconomic and replacement may be the only solution.
Tom
Delonghi Model De500P error code E3
by Jan
(Mears, Michigan)
Error code E3, what does it mean? Am I able to fix it?
Answer
This code indicates a sensor failure. You may find the answer to an earlier question (immediately below) helpful.
DeLonghi dehumidifier model DH400P - Error Code E3
by Cindy
(Peru Il)
My dehumidifier has a E3 code on it I want to find out what the part number is so I can get it fixed.
Answer
To the best of my knowledge "E3" displayed on this model indicates a sensor failure. I understand that the number of the relevant part is NE1509.
I suggest that you contact DeLonghi Customer Service. The number is:
1 (800) 322-3848
Reps are available 08:30 to 17:00 (EST)
Alternatively you may email a query to:
customerservice@delonghiusa.info
Tom
Mitsubishi MJE22VX poor water collection
by Anon.
Hi there. My dehumidifier appears to collect hardly any water if any, even when running for 4 hours. The humidity in my house is about 40-50% and the temperature is above 15c. I took it over next door and put it in a basement where the humidity was 65% and after 12 hours, collected 1.5lt. The temperature in the basement was about 5c. Is my dehumidifier faulty?
Answer
I am sure that you have checked that the humidity selector setting is at a level low enough to ensure that the unit operates within the 40-50% humidity level in your home. I am sorry if this is obvious but I need to be certain.
If the unit is collecting water in your neighbor's basement it is not faulty.
The issue, I believe, is the low humidity level in your home. Units for residential use will collect little or no water at relative humidity in the 40-50% range. They are not designed to do so because there is no practical need for humidity to be maintained below 50% in the living areas of the home.
At 50% or below there is no risk of condensation and there should be no mold growth. Dust mites will not thrive in such dry conditions either.
If you are using the unit simply to make your home safe and comfortable for yourself and others you need not set the unit to operate at a humidity level below 50%.
If you need a unit to protect an item or items that are at risk from a humidity level significantly below 50% a simple domestic model will not do the job. To maintain very dry conditions you would need a desiccant dehumidifier, designed for commercial operators, which will be very much more expensive.
Tom.
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Water not draining through the hose.
by Sue Andries
(Deerfield, Michigan)
We have a Danby dehumidifier that we use for our basement. We attached a hose to it so we didn't have to keep emptying the bucket. Worked great, but now it leaks water, and it's not from the hose connection.
We ran it without the cover on it, and it appears that the water is coming from above and inside of the unit. Water doesn't go into the bucket either when attached to the hose, just on the floor.
We've cleaned everything within sight, but it still leaks. It doesn't leak when we use the bucket, however we are constantly emptying it.
I really miss the convenience of having it hooked up to the hose. Any help would be appreciated. Looking forward to an answer
Answer
The most likely explanation is that a blockage has developed in the pipe through which the water should pass into the drainage hose. Small fragments of dust and other debris can be deposited on the cold coils and some of these may be carried by the water into the drainage pipe. A slow build-up of such debris may cause a blockage.
D.I.Y. repairs to dehumidifiers are not generally a good idea but, if (at your own risk of course :) ) you wish to try, a zip-tie is the most suitable item to use.
Work it gently into the pipe from the point where you attach the hose. You will have to negotiate a bend in the pipe which can be a tad fiddly. When you have worked the zip-tie as far as it will go, without forcing, rotate it in the pipe a few times and then withdraw it. This may do the trick.
Tom.
Drainage and symbols on the dehumidifier.
by Marje Derrick
(Troy NY USA)
We have lost our manual for the DDR4010E. It has been working fine for 2 years and all of a sudden it is not draining into the sink. The tubing is clear. Any ideas to help us would be appreciated. Thanks.
Answer
You don't say whether the unit will drain into the bucket when the drainage hose is not attached. If it will not it almost certainly means that the compressor has failed or there is a leak of refrigerant. If this is the case there is no economic alternative but to replace the appliance.
If the unit works fine with the bucket and the problem is confined to the drainage there may be a solution.
By a strange coincidence I have just answered a question from another Danby owner which deals with this very point. You will find my answer immediately above this post; it applies equally well to your question.
Tom.
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